Friday, January 23, 2015

Ballsy looks from Rick Owens in Paris

Normally Rick Owens' show is quite a spectacle, whether that's Estonian death metal band Winny Puhh hanging on wires from the ceiling, blasting music that shakes the seats we're sitting in or employing a troupe of step dancers to showcase the collection, rather than models.

This season was a little different: there was no big band and the space was far more light and airy that usual, with the show moved from the dark confines of Bercy stadium in the Twelfth to the window-filled Palais de Tokyo gallery. 

We were meant to see something. Then, as the models marched down the catwalk showcasing looks that got increasingly deconstructed (holes for non-existent arms and necks in the wrong places as well as exposed chests and legs, as if the models were rushing to get ready), we noticed what.

Underneath the outfits, the models were going commando.

Whether these were merely accidental dick-slips isn't clear, but there it was: four looks in a row (and one a little later) with holes cut out at just the right places to feature full-frontal. Needless to say it's the kind of move that grabbed the fashion press' collective attention - #dickowens was "a thing" on Twitter seconds after the front row caught a glimpse of the first look.

That's not to say the clothes weren't proof that Owens isn't still a master of his craft. While this kind of deconstruction has become the designer's signature and gained him a large and loyal following, there were some incredibly wearable pieces - in particular the black and brown wool pea coats that opened the show, and especially the ones with the contrast fur collars.

Still, might be a bit nippy in winter if you don't wear them with any underpants.

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